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Here it is Friday again and what a week !?????? ?
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| The Roguewave XT-14 |
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After so many enquires regarding the Roguewave XT-15 asking could it be downsized to a 14 fter instead, we’ve now revamped the design and the Roguewave XT-14 plans are now available.
Overall, the concept is the same except we’ve reduced the size of the forward casting deck in order to open up the size of the cockpit in the midship area.
The Roguewave XT-14 is a garvey vee hull, providing a clean and efficient hull shape with features and functionality typically only found in larger boats, With her wide shallow vee hull, this allows for large deck area, great stability at slow speed and smooth fast runs in choppy seas.
Compact in design, yet with it’ enormous capacity, it includes a self draining cockpit, loads of storage lockers, comfortable seating throughout and a stable platform for you and your friends and family members, along with all their gear. She can also be made 100% unsinkable with the addition of buoyancy foam, a big safety factor for all on board!
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Being of composite plywood construction and reduced weight, this means that she can be easily trailered to where the action is - whether it be diving, exploring, camping, fishing or... just being out there away from it all.
To see more of the Roguewave XT-14 design.
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"CE" & the Australian Builders Plate (ABP)
During the past week, a company approached us who are wanting to import boats from overseas to measure and calculate the Australian Builder Plates compliance numbers for their boats.
With 6 boats already in storage, the client bought the first one up to Bundaberg and parked it in our shed. He mentioned that the boats were already CE certified for the European markets, showing us the documentation etc and asked could we use the information provided on the CE plates.
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Looking over the boat and the CE documentation and being that the boat was manufactured in China, a few of the numbers didn’t quite add up. So I suggested that we re-check the boat and recalculate to AS1799 as I was a bit suspicions about the CE plate
For those who are wondering what “CE” stands for :??
CE marking is a key indicator of a product’s compliance with EU legislation and enables the free movement of products within the European market. By affixing the CE marking on a product, a manufacturer is declaring, on her sole responsibility, conformity with all of the legal requirements to achieve CE marking and therefore ensuring validity for that product to be sold throughout the European Economic Area.
Confusing CE marks
Some products have a CE symbol that has been alleged to stand for China Export or China Electronics and is confusingly very similar to the E.U.s CE mark. The two letters are close together, not spaced as in the European conformance mark.
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European conformance CE mark
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Some products may be conforming but not displaying the logotype correctly and others may illegally put the correct mark on non-conforming items, or on an item without the required accompanying certificate of conformity.
In this case the boat had a plate similar to the European CE plate, giving the impression that the boat was legal and certified to the European markets. In other words, if you not aware of what to look for, you can get caught out.
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"China Export/Electronics" CE symbol
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After measuring the boat and doing a bit of number crunching and stability calcs, the boat as it stood with the so called “CE” certification didn’t comply with any standards. So, with this in mind and after a discussion with the client, we opted to recalculate to to the AS1799 standard. This means now that overall, he can sleep at nights knowing that his boats actually comply to a standard and most importantly by being a business, won’t cope a $25,000 fine if audited by the Marine Safety Authorities. So with this now done, we look forward to working with Paul in regards to the rest of his boats.
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Build Photos for the weekKens Mushulu 14:Ken writes:
"Ive added the scuppers to the seats and installed the rear seat over the weekend. Heres a couple of photos to let you see how its going. regardsKen" ????????
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Mathews Mushulu 14:
Mathew writes:
G’day all,
Well I’ve nearly finished the mods, a bit more sanding then it’s ready for painting – planning to repaint the bottom of boat to match it all up. It’s a nice walk through now and I’m very happy with it.
The seat top that was cut out became the ramp up to the floor. The pics probably don’t do justice as to how much standing room there is now, but it’s a good size and certainly provides a great platform to fish from.
Next mods – hopefully forward steering??
See you next time. Mathew If youd like to see more of his build, please visist of BoatBuilding Forum
To see more of the Mushulu 14 design or our range of designs, please visit our website
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Next Design coming:Weve been approached by Dajuane from Florida USA to design a Flats Microskiff for fishing the Florida Keys and surrounding waters.
Microskiffs typically run in very shallow water and are narrow enough so that you can manovure yourself either by motor or poling through the mangroves and narrow channels.
He writes:
My fishing style is typical for a Florida fly fisherman in the microskiff community. I fish 40% of my time solo with a fly rod from the bow while using a small trolling motor or short push pole from the bow. Most of the time, the water where I fish solo is 2 to 4 feet deep. 50% percent of the time I will be fishing with one other person. In that situation one person is on the poling platform pushing and maneuvering the boat with a 19-21 foot long carbon fiber push pole. The other person is on the bow casting a fly rod. That is the ideal fish stalking situation. It typically occurs in water ranging from 1-3 foot deep. Sometimes even shallower if the red fish get into the grass flats during high tide. 5% of the time I will have a total of 3 people on the boat including myself. The two other people will be seated and will cast off the sides of the boat and fish “old man” style. The other 5% of the time the boat will be beached and I’ll be fishing from shore, using the boat only to get to my location.
Although I do most of my fishing in brackish water shallows I do have to cross open water too from time to time. Our conditions here in the Mosquito lagoon are not like the bays you have there. Water is typically 4-8 feet deep and 14 foot at the channels. Waves are short and choppy. When the wind is up (30 km/h) the waves get very choppy but remain short (just barely white capping by most standards) but the period between waves is very short due to the shallow water.
There are a lot of flat bottom boats in use around here. I do not want a flat bottom boat. I don’t want to pound too much. I think a little vee will be needed. No more than 10 degrees I guess because it still has to perform well in the shallows. I prefer a flared hull rather than a slab sided one because as you know, with slab sides in the first 1/2 of the hull, you are in for a wet ride. I want to remain fairly dry even for a small boat.
For ease of construction and storage I prefer a boat less than 60 inches wide. 54” to 56” is ideal at the deck and 48” at the water line I think. A boat with that displacement will run fine with a 20-25hp I think. I do not want to buy anything over 25hp. Also, this boat will be towed by a small Subaru. You will find that many fly fishermen here in Florida have switched to smaller boats and smaller cars. This is a good reason why the www.microskiff.com site is becoming popular here. A 16 footer fits nicely into my Garage or any other typical American garage. A 18 footer will require a hinged tongue trailer and being stored at a slight angle. Although a 18 footer will track better while being poled, building one will require personal inspection by FWC in order to get registration.
Here in Florida any home built watercraft over 16 foot must be inspected by FWC. Less than 16 foot watercraft do not need to be inspected. So I’m not sure if the two extra feet are really worth it. You will find that ANYTHING you design for the American Market should be available in two sizes. One less than 16 and one over 16 but slightly less than 18 foot. As for fit and finish. I am searching for a fishing boat with a great performing hull. I don’t care for a yacht finish. I want a durable boat that is light, simple to build, and possesses a great hull that is quiet is the shallows, doesn’t slap much in light chop or quartering winds, and is reasonable stable for it’s size. I like fully decked boats but I’m open to bench seats as long as there is a built in casting deck up front. I know stability is in the eye of the beholder but I think we here in Florida are used to boats that are much less stable that what you consider reasonably stable. I guess this is probably because we have wimpy waves here in our local water. What people call 2 foot chop here you might call a 10 inch roller.
Hope this helps
Dajuane (Florida..USA)
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But what have been studied by now is a configuration that maintaining the two rudders as they are, modifying the movable foils that assume a double role: Given grip to the boat upwind and creating lift. The drawing makes sense but the foil could not be completely raised out of the water and, as I see it, will create drag on light wind sailing. I am very curious and hoping any of the new boats will go for that, to see the real system potential and if the advantages will be superior to the disadvantages.
